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Dhaulagiri Expedition

Trip Overview


Dhaulagiri is one of the most popular 8,000m peaks for climbing in Nepal. Normally, four camps will be set up. Advance Base Camp will be set up at 5,300m. This is used for depositing the gear and not for camping due to the danger of avalanche. Camp 1 will be set up at 5,900m. Camp 2 will be fixed at 6,400m on the col, which requires climbing towards the east from the Advance Base Camp. This will require stretches of steep climbing.

From Camp 2, we climb towards the west side with steep climbing and arrive at Camp 3 at 7,200m. We then climb towards the east ridge. We have to be very careful when climbing over the ridge and we will probably have to face strong winds while climbing to arrive at Camp 4, 7,500m. The climbing of this section is considered the most difficult in the expedition. Then we will push to the summit and return to Camp 3 if everything goes as planned. If we can’t approach the summit from Camp 4 due to bad weather or other reasons, we will have to fix bivouac at 7,900m and the next day try to push to the summit.