Trip Overview

The Kangchenjunga is a mountain of the Himalaya range, at the far East of Nepal on the border of the district of Sikkim and around twenty kilometers South of Tibet. It is one of the 14 mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) high above sea level. With an elevation of 8,586 m, Kangchenjunga is the third highest, after Mount Everest (8,850 m) and K2 (8,611 m).

It is also called Kanchenjunga, Kangchen Dzo-nga or Kachendzonga, which means “The Five Treasures of Snows”.

The Kangchenjunga contains five peaks, four of them are above 8,400 meters: main summit (8,586 m), West summit (8,505 m), central summit (8,482 m), South summit (8,494 M) and Kangbachen (7,903 m).

The route starts at 5,500 meters on the Yalung glacier where the base camp (BC) is established.

Above the BC, the route follows a rocky spur up to 6,000 m. Then it climbs steep slopes and the serac up to a snow ridge at 6,200 m where the camp 1 stands.

From the camp 1, the route follows a short horizontal ridge, then descends on a plateau and cross this plateau. The camp 2 is located at the end of the plateau and the bottom of the face, at around 6,400 m.

From the camp 2, climb the snow slope above. It may be hard to find a way between the numerous seracs and crevasses, especially in bad weather. The camp 3 can bet set at the top of the slope or even better on the plateau itself at around 7,200 m.

From the camp 3, continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur, at the base of the big Couloir. The camp 4 can be set between 7,500 m and 7,700 m.

From the camp 4, climb the Couloir up to 8,250 m. The Couloir splits in two, take the right side and traverse right (Diagonal) to the base of a steep wall (around 8,380 m). Climb the wall which is graded III+, continue to a rocky tower at around 8,450 m (also called the “Bivouac”). Climb a short snowy ridge then traverse to the right to a Chimney at around 8,500 m. Rappel down the Chimney, traverse to the right on mixed terrain to join a snow slope leading to the main summit at 8,586 m.

Southwest route of Kangchenjunga. Note that the camp 2 is hidden and behind the snow ridge.

Minimum 4 pax