The Kangchenjunga is a mountain of the Himalaya range, at the far East of Nepal on the border of the district of Sikkim and around twenty kilometers South of Tibet. It is one of the 14 mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) high above sea level. With an elevation of 8,586 m, Kangchenjunga is the third highest, after Mount Everest (8,850 m) and K2 (8,611 m).
It is also called Kanchenjunga, Kangchen Dzo-nga or Kachendzonga, which means “The Five Treasures of Snows”.
The Kangchenjunga contains five peaks, four of them are above 8,400 meters: main summit (8,586 m), West summit (8,505 m), central summit (8,482 m), South summit (8,494 M) and Kangbachen (7,903 m).
The route starts at 5,500 meters on the Yalung glacier where the base camp (BC) is established.
Above the BC, the route follows a rocky spur up to 6,000 m. Then it climbs steep slopes and the serac up to a snow ridge at 6,200 m where the camp 1 stands.
From the camp 1, the route follows a short horizontal ridge, then descends on a plateau and cross this plateau. The camp 2 is located at the end of the plateau and the bottom of the face, at around 6,400 m.
From the camp 2, climb the snow slope above. It may be hard to find a way between the numerous seracs and crevasses, especially in bad weather. The camp 3 can bet set at the top of the slope or even better on the plateau itself at around 7,200 m.
From the camp 3, continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur, at the base of the big Couloir. The camp 4 can be set between 7,500 m and 7,700 m.
From the camp 4, climb the Couloir up to 8,250 m. The Couloir splits in two, take the right side and traverse right (Diagonal) to the base of a steep wall (around 8,380 m). Climb the wall which is graded III+, continue to a rocky tower at around 8,450 m (also called the “Bivouac”). Climb a short snowy ridge then traverse to the right to a Chimney at around 8,500 m. Rappel down the Chimney, traverse to the right on mixed terrain to join a snow slope leading to the main summit at 8,586 m.
Southwest route of Kangchenjunga. Note that the camp 2 is hidden and behind the snow ridge.
Minimum 4 pax
Permit Fee (Royalty)
– Kanchanjunga climbing permit
– 4 night hotel accommodation in KATHMANDU at the Three Star Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with in BB plan in twin sharing basis
– All the airport pick up and drop
– All the group transport in Nepal as per itinerary
– Flight to Badrapur, drive in and trek to BC/ Fly by Helicopter From BC to Kathmandu
– 1 Client 1 Climbing Sherpa
– Base camp and cook and kitchen helpers
– Daily wages, equipment bonus of local staff , Porter or Kanchanjunga BC & while back
– Staff allowance, Liaison office allowances, Porters allowance and equipment allowances
– For Sherpa, cook, Porters and LO staff insurance, Emergency Evacuation, medical and rescue insurance
Food & Fuel
– Meals at Base camp
– High food for C1, C2, C3 and C4 food
– high altitude Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food EPI gas with burner for high camps
– Full board trekking with lodge & Food for BC Expedition period
– Base camp tent: 1 tent for 1 clients
– trekking equipment for BC,
– High altitude tent: 1 HA tent per 2 members
– Dinning tent, Kitchen tent, Toilet tent and Shower tent and cooking sets for Base Camp, Foam Mattress and Insulate Mattress
– All Kitchen equipment in BC.
– 10 bottles oxygen. (6 bottles for member and 4 bottle for Sherpa)
– 2 set mask and regulators
– Oxygen with mask set for medical purpose
– Solar panel at base camp for recharging
Group Climbing Equipment
– Fixed ropes, main ropes, snow bar, ice screw, Epi gas, Eip gas stoves, high cooking pot sets, Insulate Mattress, sleeping bag in mountain etc.
– Gammo bag(chamber bag) at base camp for medical propose, medical kits
– Two ways base radio
– Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 4)
– We support with heaters in BC
– All necessary taxes and Agency service charge
• Airfare to and from Nepal
• Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
• Extra hotel accommodation in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages
• Insurance of member Visa & visa extension fees Personal climbing equipment
• All the emergency evacuation on the mountain will be by members assistance, the helicopter service is available from Kathmandu only. Personal climbing clothing and equipment
• Extra Oxygen, it cost US $ 450 per bottle
• Summit bonus for Sherpa, Minimums level is US$ 2,000, please calculate some tips for kitchen staffs
• Staff gratuities
ADDITIONAL SERVICE IF REQUIRED:
Extra climbing sherpa : US $ 7,500 FEW MAJOR POINTS:
The total duration of expedition is 46- 55 days, no refund is made for any unused service.