Baruntse is one of the beautiful 7,000m peaks in Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on the normal route. The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse Base Camp (5,250m). Normally, we establish two camps above the Base Camp in the approach to the mountain. Camp 1 is set up just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and Camp 2 is on the south east ridge at a height of 6,420m. From Camp 1, we cross east col and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the south east ridge. Next we move through steep slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of Camp 2 at a height of 6,420m.
From Camp 2, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep ice and snow steps until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we pass through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff. Getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and, finally, to 7,129m and the summit. The descent is by the same route.
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